On opening: a touch of orange or brick to the colour now. Gorgeous nose – the smoky, gamey Syrah to the fore, with raspberry, strawberry and wood smoke. Medium- to full-bodied style, with more smoke and red fruit. Lovely tannic feel here, well balanced, with good acidity and some marked bitter notes. Long finish, with fairly raised alcohol. A good time to drink this. Not perhaps as generous or harmonious as some vintages, but very good. After 36 hours: it's explosively aromatic, so smoky and electric. Complex and delicious. Strawberries and bitter orange; it's more harmonious today. Alcohol still a touch raised, but so long. Sandy terroir.

The 2011 Fonsalette Côtes du Rhône showed beautifully, with the ripe, perfumed, yet light-on-its-feet style of the vintage. Revealing a lively ruby hue as well as a gorgeous nose of sweet kirsch, redcurrants, garrigue, and spicy, flower notes, it hits the palate with medium-bodied richness, a pure, layered, elegant mouthfeel, and outstanding length. It's fully mature and drinking brilliantly yet has at least another decade of prime drinking.

The elegant 2011 Côtes-du-Rhône Réservé is ready for business. Tobacco, melted licorice, strawberry compote, white pepper and herb garden notes are all pushed forward. Medium- to full-bodied and framed by silky tannins, the 2011 offers good concentration and culminates in a distinctively savory finish.

87% Grenache Blanc, 8% Clairette, 5% Marsanne; grown 30 km north of Châteauneuf near Bollène where the mistral blows. A much cooler site. Yet this wine is wonderfully rich and round. Honey and quince. How does he do it? (Produce something so clean and pure in a winery that smells like a byre.) (JR)