Unquestionably one of my wines of the year. It has all the classic Reynaud aromatic markers from the Grenache (red fruits, orange peel, dried rose); the Syrah gives great structure; the Cinsault a floral lift. Amazing complexity here – totally classic Fonsalette. This is ready now and utterly delicious, with compelling aromatics. Pretty much perfect. Aged in old demi-muids in the Rayas cellar.

Moving to the reds, the 2012 Fonsalette Cotes du Rhone, which was tasted from multiple barrels, offers gorgeous Grenache character with white pepper, green herbs and pine-like notes that are grounded by a superb core of fruit. Medium to full-bodied, beautifully fresh and elegant, it should be an outstanding bottle of wine with 12-15 years of longevity. Most likely needing little introduction, these singular efforts are made by Emmanuel Reynaud from his tiny plot of pure sandy soils located near the center of the Chateauneuf du Pape appellation. Surrounded on all sides by forest (which is unique) and a cool terroir, harvest here goes very late and these wines never lack for power or richness. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

The Cinsault ingredient is very pretty, floral, spicy with good tannins. It has a firm undertow and is indubitably a great ingredient. (Amazing to think how long Fonsalette Rouge lives…) The Grenache is also very transparent and sweet. Great charm. And the Syrah, some of which is always bottled separately, is darker than the other two varieties and is salty but also fine and muscular. Very racy and fine as well as being much more polished than most southern Rhône Syrahs. (JR)