The 2007 Château de Fonsalette Côtes-du-Rhône Réservé Syrah is a total stunner, offering lifted notes of orange rind, cured meat, black olive tapenade and pepper, all wrapped around darker hints of blackberry jam, dried shiitake, forest floor and pencil shavings. Full-bodied yet hauntingly elegant, the 2007 shows remarkable refinement with silky tannins providing just the right amount of gentle grip. Concentrated and expressive, this vintage-transparent Syrah is sitting in a perfect drinking spot, combining richness and class with a touch of flamboyance. The finish is long, seductive and serene at its core. Decant for an hour to unlock its full complexity, then enjoy the ride.

Wine Advocate October, 2012 One of the rarest wines from the Rayas/Fonsalette portfolio is always the Fonsalette Cotes du Rhone Cuvee Syrah. Made from vines grown on a north-facing, cool-climate slope from Syrah cuttings taken from the vineyards of the famous Chave family in Mauves in Tain Hermitage, the 2007 pushes animalistic characteristics to a maximum, but pulls back before it becomes too eccentric or idiosyncratic. This dark purple wine displays notes of bouquet garni, tapenade, raw beef, smoked duck, and plenty of cassis, black currant and blackberry fruit. Full-bodied, opulent, and possessing the 2007’s exuberance and low acidity but considerable glycerin and alcohol, this is a stunning Syrah that should drink well for 20-25 years. I base this time line on the fact that the 1978 Cuvee Syrah, their debut vintage, is still remarkably healthy and just approaching full maturity.

Component #1, from a classic galets roules (rounded stones) vineyard: Pungent cherry and garrigue aromas are expansive and subtly smoky. Very rich, with creamy cherry and dark berry flavors, gently chewy texture and a late note of cracked pepper. Component #2, from sandy soil only meters from the galets site: Intensely perfumed bouquet of red and dark berries, violet, minerals and cola. Supple red berry flavors are impressively precise, with a strong mineral undercurrent. (Reynaud's Cotes du Rhone Chateau de Fonsalette blend of grenache, cinsault and syrah was also extremely impressive in November, suggesting 92-94 potential.)

As one might expect, the 2007 Fonsalette Cotes du Rhone Cuvee Syrah is enormous. An inky/purple color is followed by notes of animal fur, roasted meats, truffles, smoked herbs, and notions of soy as well as Peking duck. Deep and full-bodied with marvelous fruit, huge extract, and an amazing finish, it should be at its finest between 2013 and 2025. After going through a transitional period after Jacques Reynaud died in 1997, it is safe to say that his nephew, Emmanuel Reynaud, has returned this venerable estate to its previous level of high quality. While Chateauneuf du Pape is a warm appellation, Rayas is situated in a cool micro-climate, and is undoubtedly not an easy property to maintain. It is also known for its sandy soils, which are in total contrast to the rock-strewn plateau a half mile to the east, west, and south. Two utterly profound Rayas Chateauneuf du Papes have been produced recently, the 2005 and 2007. 2007 is a superb vintage at Chateau Rayas Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400