(all grenache) Light red. Intensely perfumed, seductive aromas of red berries, minerals and fresh flowers. Ridiculously spicy and vibrant, with vivid strawberry, raspberry and kirsch flavors, fully absorbed tannins and a long, silky finish. This is absolutely gorgeous.

The 2006 Pignan Chateauneuf du Pape looks very strong in 2006, with a kirsch-dominated nose intermixed with licorice and resiny balsam wood notes in a full-bodied, heady style with sweet tannin, low acidity, and oodles of fruit. It’s a beauty. This great estate has been going through a transitional period, with some replanting in their vineyards, and of course the enormous challenge of replacing the legendary proprietor and winemaker, the late Jacques Reynaud, who passed away in the winter of 1997. Replaced by his nephew Emmanuel Reynaud, who had worked closely with his uncle, the early vintages, as I reported on in this publication, were good but hardly exciting. Reason to be concerned about the direction in which the estate was going was a legitimate worry. The 1998, 1999, and 2000 vintages were vintages where Rayas was well behind the pack of top producers in Chateauneuf du Pape. However, with that said, the tasting I did with Emmanuel Reynaud in late August was the best tasting I have done with him in a decade, and while it may be premature to say that Rayas is back to the greatness of Jacques Reynaud, Emmanuel has made some fabulous wines that are going to be released over the next several years. Importer: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400