The 2016 Cote Rotie La Cote Blonde (from the lieu-dit of the same name—not a blend of sites) is a terrific effort. It blends the structure of la Viallière with the elegance of la Landonne, making it a truly complete and compelling bottle. Some mocha, black olive and meaty notes lend it a savory cast, while the palate is creamy and concentrated, firm but silky. It's medium to full-bodied, with a fine, licorice-tinged finish that lingers a good long time. It should drink well for 20+ years. Joe Czerwinski.

Bright purple. Expansive blackberry, licorice, smoky bacon and potpourri aromas are complemented by a strong mineral overlay. Seamless and broad on the palate, offering concentrated black and blue fruit liqueur, salty olive and floral pastille flavors and an emphatic jolt of exotic spices. Finishes with repeating mineral, floral and dark fruit character, supple, well-knit tannins and outstanding tenacity.

Magnum. The nose starts with oak, but the fruit still asserts control on the palate, and this is absolutely thrilling to taste – sweet blackberry, black cherry, toasted spices, bay leaves. Everything that you could hope for from this style. (RH)