The outstanding, saturated dark plum-colored 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reservee possesses notes of scorched earth, roasted herbs, smoked duck, and a boatload of kirsch liqueur fruitiness. Full-bodied, with moderate tannin and impressive purity and concentration, this wine should be cellared for 1-3 years, and drunk over the following 12-15.

Full ruby-red. Roasted red berries and roast coffee on the liqueur-like nose. Concentrated, dense and chewy, with port-like ripeness and elevated alcohol. Classic grenache flavors of red berry liqueur and chocolate. Finishes with big, chewy tannins.

Dark crimson. Very sweet and correct. Pure and herby and no sacrifice to drinkability. Lots of tannin but good freshness of fruit. Good balance – no excess of sweetness or alcohol. (JR)