From lieux-dits Le Greffieux and Le Méal, the fruit is 50% destemmed. This is beautifully fragrant, starting to take on a little sous bois, with notes of raspberry, violet and dried flowers. It's full-bodied, juicy and rich, with powerful acidity running through it: powerful and very long. A well balanced, complex wine that's just about ready to drink, but will improve.

An undeniably old-school styled Hermitage, the 2009 Hermitage Le Greal comes from vines in the Le Meal and Greffieux lieux-dits (it’s mostly from le Meal) and was brought up in older barrels. This deep ruby/plum colored effort boasts loads of currant and blackberry fruits, ground pepper, dry aged beef and building minerality on the nose. Medium-bodied, surprisingly elegant, with good acidity, and fine tannin, it’s just at the early stages of maturity and will last for another two decades or more.

Only just showing the earth and moss of age. Still full of youthful fruit. Gorgeous chocolate and leather notes to finish. Long, refined feathery texture with plenty of tannin to continue ageing. (RH)