(made from fruit grown in Greffieux and Méal, half of it destemmed; aged in used barriques for 18 months): Bright purple. Potent scents of cherry pit, blueberry liqueur, licorice and bitter chocolate, accompanied by a smoky accent that builds in the glass. Densely packed and alluringly sweet, offering smoky black and blue fruit, spicecake, olive and floral pastille flavors energized by a jolt of cracked pepper. Smooth, harmonious tannins come in late on the sappy, smoky, impressively long finish.

Easily my favorite of the 2013s, the 2012 Hermitage le Greal comes mostly from the warmer le Meal lieu-dit, but incorporates 10% from Greffieux. It has good richness and depth in its peppery dark fruits, cured meat and tapenade-styled bouquet. This is followed by a full-bodied, fleshy, full and textured Hermitage that has solid mid-palate depth and enough structure to warrant a few years in the cellar.

Freshly baked fruitcake, layer upon layer of flavour, and supple tannins with charming lightness of touch. This is Hermitage’s sensitive side – perfumed and aromatic, yet without sacrificing wonderful fruit purity. (RH)