Brilliant violet. Highly perfumed black raspberry and cherry liqueur aromas are accompanied by potpourri, mocha, vanilla and baking spice nuances, along with a smoky mineral flourish that builds in the glass. Juicy and appealingly sweet, displaying palate-staining red and blue fruit, spicecake and floral pastille flavors that show superb depth and a smooth, seamless texture. Deftly balances richness and vivacity and finishes extremely long and spicy, with smooth, harmonious tannins and a subtle echo of candied flowers and kirsch.

The 2017 Gigondas le Claux features deep blue and black fruit on the nose. It's full-bodied in the mouth, with a generous, silky mouthfeel and an expansive, voluptuous finish that folds in hints of dark chocolate and salted licorice. All Grenache, from vines planted in the 19th century, it's a terrific Gigondas.

95% Grenache, 5% Syrah. Cask sample. Tasted blind. Sweet oak spice, similarly ripe red fruit and some juniper bitterness giving a savoury kick to the finish. Very tannic and tight. Unforgiving structure and candied flavour profile makes this an uneasy blend. (RH)