Almost entirely Grenache, from parcels planted in 1901 and 1902, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Imperiale is a stunner. Scents of roses, black tea and raspberries set the scene, while the palate is full-bodied but silky and nearly weightless, delivering an intricate, detailed interplay of red fruit, dried spices and orange zest. Despite what must be 15% alcohol or more, it shows absolutely no sign of heat.

Dark colour; the nose is reserved, but classy. Offers real pinpoint fruit, no masking, black olives, a hint of oak, loganberries, cassis, lots to explore over time. It has a most joli airborne quality, even given its stylish depth. The palate strides out, but carefully, with silken content, a most winning length and balance. It’s a real classic Châteaneuf of fine elements, a full basket of fruit and matter, precision tannins, harmony, velvet glove time. This remains the utterly major wine I’ve always considered it to be. It has effortless length, top pedigree, is settling inside itself for now, but everything is very fine tuned. Drinking suggestion from 2024. Tasted in October 2019.