Translucent yellow. Expansive nectarine, poached pear, honey and floral aromas sharpened by a zesty, building mineral flourish. Gently sweet and seamless on the palate, offering densely packed orchard and pit fruit flavors that are braced by a spine of juicy acidity. Shows excellent focus and mineral cut on the floral-dominated finish, where a gingery note adds closing spiciness and bite.

The 2017 Condrieu les Chaillees de l'Enfer offers up unusually subdued aromas of apricot and citrus. It's a reined-in vintage, showing ample tension on the medium to full-bodied palate and finishing velvety, with hints of crushed stone and pencil oak. Like the other 2017s from Vernay, it's about balance and focus more than flamboyance or power.

Rich, sweetly fruited palate with superb oak integration giving sweet spice and vanilla. Such self-evident class, giving maximum flavour with minimal effort. (RH)