The 2006 vintage continues to deliver the goods, and the 2006 Châteauneuf Du Pape shows the up-front, charming nature of the vintage to a T. Red and black fruits, lavender, peppery garrigue, and sweet spices all define the aromatics, and this medium to full-bodied, round, supple, seamless Vieux Donjon is fully mature and drinking at point.

Slightly firm, with juniper, sage and sandalwood hints framing dark plum, currant, coffee and mineral notes. The grippy finish has a cedar note in the background, with hints of black tea and tar. A gutsy style, with fresh acidity in reserve. Best from 2009 through 2028.

Ruby-red. Intensely perfumed aromas of Asian spices, garrigue, red berries, smoke and minerals. This elegant wine calls to mind pinot noir in its weight and texture. Sweet, palate-staining raspberry and cherry flavors are enlivened by juicy acidity. Very pure and seductive wine with no gamey qualities and a long, sweet finish.

The 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape reveals the vintage’s peppery, earthy spiciness along with notes of forest floor, root vegetables, black cherries, and meat. This rich, medium to full-bodied effort possesses moderately soft tannin as well as good body, depth, and richness. It is a strong effort that should age nicely for 15+ years.

Big, brazen red fruits on the nose, followed up by a pinch of piquant spice. Is it just a bit empty in the middle though? Good component parts, but somehow there is something slightly unsatisfying about the whole. (RH)