The 2007 Vieux Telegraphe may be the greatest wine made at this property since the 2005 and 1998. Dense ruby/purple-tinged with an exquisite nose of salty sea breezes, licorice, ground pepper, jammy black cherries, black currants, figs, and plums, this is a full-bodied, rich, Provencal-styled offering with lots of sweet, ripe tannin. It is surprisingly accessible for a Vieux Telegraphe (this wine normally shuts down several years after bottling), but it should have great longevity (25+ years) given its power, full-bodied mouthfeel, and enormous length and richness. This is a brilliant effort from brothers Frederic and Daniel Brunier.

Glass-staining ruby. Highly pungent bouquet offers black fruit compote, olive and floral qualities, along with a slightly high-toned quality that recedes with air. The palate-coating, deeply concentrated cassis and blackberry flavors display a slow-mounting spiciness. Pretty powerful for a wine from this estate, showing more heft and dark fruit character than usual. The finish is broad, velvety and impressively persistent. Long-time fans of this property's usually elegant style might not be over the moon for this wine's virility. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley CA

Magnum. Lifted and racy while being sweet and dense too. At peak and nicely evolved. Gorgeous. Perfect tonight; I wonder what the bottles are like? Sweet and spicy. Round and irresistible. Liquorice flavours. Looks much older than the Clos des Papes 2006. (JR)