Impressive, complex array of wild cherries, raspberries, garrigue herbs, lightly spiced pastry and stony, chalky minerals. Super-fresh florals. The palate has superb texture, roundness, completeness, depth and detail. Powerful yet elegant with powdery tannins and essence-like red fruit. Super-fleshy, supple and dense core, then strong at the edges. Layer upon layer peels away on the finish. Resounding finesse and equilibrium, showing the full potential of the plateau La Crau. Drink or hold.

Bottled just last week, the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape offers a classic, gorgeous bouquet of black raspberries, currants, violets, salty minerality, nori (seaweed wrapper) and licorice. Full-bodied, pure, incredibly elegant, with fine tannin, and a huge finish, this is classic Vieux Télégraphe all the way that has the balance to drink now. Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is one of the old-guard estates in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and the Brunier brothers continue to make a classic, ageworthy, and uncompromising style of wine that requires bottle age. The estate is in the eastern portion of the appellation and has a whopping 150 acres of prime terroir, almost all located in the famed La Crau lieu-dit, which is one of the warmer, earlier terroirs in the region. In addition to their reds, they also make a brilliant white. I’ve also included the La Roquete releases here, which are also made by this team.

One of the best vintages of the domaine – 'if you were to pull out five since 1960, the 2016 would be among them,' says winemaker and owner Daniel Brunier. Very immediate and open with blueberry, violet and Griotte cherry. Full and lush in texture with a very fine tannic structure and lovely acidity too. The alcohol is present, but it's balanced for Châteauneuf. Very harmonious, with great depth and will be fantastic when it's ready.

Undoubtedly one of the top vintages of this wine, the 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape La Crau features classy notes of crushed stones and black tea to go along with ripe raspberries and black cherries. Full-bodied yet silky, there's more power and richness in La Crau than in Piedlong, yet there's commensurate elegance and finesse. The wine grows in intensity on the finish without ever seeming heavy or overripe, instead offering hints of tea and licorice.

Lurid ruby-red. Potent, mineral-accented Chambord, cherry compote and licorice aromas are complicated by suave lavender and Asian spice qualities. Seamless, round and alluringly sweet, offering lush red and blue fruit preserve and floral pastille flavors and a hint of five-spice powder. Finishes sappy, sweet and extremely long, featuring velvety tannins and resonating florality.

Apricot, peach, a bit of struck match, honey, stones and white chocolate. Full and fleshy, with low acidity but freshness provided by a bit of reductive bite. Smartly done. (RH)

Apricot, peach, a bit of struck match, honey, stones and white chocolate. Full and fleshy, with low acidity but freshness provided by a bit of reductive bite. Smartly done. (RH)