White currant and white peach are pungently wreathed in green herbs for stimulating aromatic display, and are joined on a firm palate by incisive, invigorating nips of cress and radish. The finish is mouth-shaking in its bright conveyance of energy, not to mention consummately refreshing and implacably stony.

The 2018 Scharzhofberger Kabinett (AP #2) is brilliant, clear and coolish on the nose, with cold, wet and clayey yet also crunchy slate aromas and bright fruit. Lush and precise, with lingering salinity and mineral expression, this is a complex and structured Scharzhofberger Kabinett with great aging potential. Tasted in June 2019.

A sprinkle of sulphur on the nose, and understated lemon fruit. Spritzy and vibrant on the palate, with hardly any sweetness on display, thanks to that nervy acidity. And what length! On and on and on. Still incredibly primary and tight. Quite magical. (RH)