The auctioned 2020 Riesling Scharzhofberger Spätlese A.P. #8 reflects relatively late harvest but, as with its “regular” (A.P. #6) counterpart, botrytis influence is only slight. The overall impression is remarkably ethereal and delicate. Apple, quince and pear are garlanded in hyacinth, heliotrope and honeysuckle on both the haunting nose and the floating, subtly creamy, billowingly perfumed palate. Hints of vanilla cream and dried fig coexist with juicy fresh fruit. Very subtle seed piquancy is ideally placed to serve for stimulating counterpoint, while an influx of salinity serves to activate the salivary glands on a finish that doesn’t want to end or to come down to earth. Here one witnesses how prodigious length and abundance of flavors are entirely compatible with a sense of restraint and understatement. This wine doesn’t need to raise its voice to make the point that it reflects grand cru material and utmost refinement of workmanship.

My name is Egon Müller and seduction is the name of my game, strictly restricted to wine of course. This is the message the Scharzhofberger Spätlese is sending out, with a perfume which manages to compress all exotic and regional fruit into one single delightful portion of marzipan. Creamy on the palate would be an understatement. Its smooth subtlety is overwhelming and impossible to prise apart. Liquid marzipan, enhanced not by lashings of sweetness, but endowed with a delightful composition of spice and apple. (MS)