Even as we get to Spätlese level in the present collection, there is a delightfully cooling aspect to the 2020 Riesling Wiltinger Braune Kupp Spätlese A.P. #5 Le Gallais, here engendered by pear and honeydew melon laced with brown spices, but also lime, mint and basil. The buoyant midpalate impression is succulent as well as silken, with suggestions of quince preserves and marzipan emphasizing the ripeness and very lightly botrytized nature of the fruit without sacrificing the cooling elements or citric brightness. Somehow the lusciously lingering finish manages to be stimulating yet soothing and caressing. Citrus zest, cinnamon and mace serve for welcome counterpoint, but here is one of those rare instances at this address where I have the impression of slight excess sweetness that needs time to integrate.