The 2019 Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett is precise and flinty on the coolish, herbal and serious nose. Round and juicy on the palate, this is a very intense, sweet and quite powerful yet structured and grippy Kabinett with piquant acidity and good tension. Needs time. 2024-2045. SR

Although this is still very youthful, there’s already lots of sliced pear and white peach on the nose with a hint of wet earth. Quite a generous Kabinett, but with the distinctive raciness of the category, this already gives so much, but has excellent aging potential. Very long finish with just a hint of apple rings sauteed in butter, suggesting the ripeness of the vintage. Drink or hold. Stuart Pigott