The 2003 Riesling Auslese Wehlener Sonnenuhr sports a delightful nose of smoky minerals and herbal spices. Light to medium-bodied and softly-textured, it offers seamlessly suave layers of candied minerals, spices, and poached pears whose effects linger in its long, lush finish. Anticipated maturity: now-2016. Importers: Rudi Wiest Selections by Cellars International, Inc., Carlsbad, CA; tel. (760) 566-0499 and Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500

The wonders of age! After tasting the 2018 version, you can see what happens with maturity. That caramel and baked fruit note is just profound. Alive, alert, utterly delicious. Cooked apples and spice. Captures the magic of Riesling. (RH)

Peach and vanilla aromas. Broad, polished and creamy, yet it lies lightly, even delicately, on the palate. Brown spice, mango and banana suggest the vintage's extreme ripeness without conveying any overt sense of botrytis. Static yet imposingly rich and layered on the finish. (Nooks and crannies are not what this vintage, particularly at this address, is about.) Potential 2 stars.