A whiff of smoke at first, but the nose slowly unfurls. As enormous as it is brilliant, and the interplay of the components is about as sensually ravishing as wine gets. The freshness at the finish is devastatingly beautiful and doesn't want to stop. Better from 2020 and will age for half a century.

The 2015 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese (AP 17) is clear, though still a bit reductive on the nose, offering sweet herbal flavors more than anything else. There are very subtle mineral flavors in the background. The wine is round, highly refined and perfectly balanced on the palate, provided with a lush and sweet fruit, an elegant texture and a stimulating salinity and grip in the finish. This is gorgeous! Keep it for another 5-10 years, though. Stephan Reinhardt

Peach, apricot and brown spice notes permeate this juicy, vivid white, which is fresh and lively, with a delicate profile and a long, lip-smacking aftertaste. Drink now through 2033. BS

Heady scents of lily, heliotrope, quince preserves and apple jelly set the stage for a creamy, buoyant palate performance similarly dominated by billowing floral perfume and rich fruit confiture. Although the harmonious, lusciously layered finish lacks the clarity of the corresponding Zeltinger, it displays superb persistence and incorporates a mouthwatering suffusion of mineral salts. Here is another instance where the Prüms’ general observation almost certainly holds true: Wehlener Sonnenuhr needs longer to show its potential than a wine of identical Prädikat from one of their other sites. David Schildknecht