Scents and luscious, glossy palate presence of overripe apple and peach gain welcome counterpoint from the piquancy of seed and pit, while a greenhouse-like diversity of flowering and leafing things conveys intriguing perfume. A musky, peony-like note emerges midpalate. Liqueur-like intensity of fruit and a touch of caramel are backed, as in this year’s Bernkasteler Auslese Goldkapsel, by an unusually prominent sense of sheer sweetness, but without the fresh fruit juiciness that clung to that corresponding Bernkasteler’s finish. (I have not tasted an A.P. #17 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese Goldkapsel, which was auctioned.)

AP number 14 17. Intense aroma of pure apricot fruit with a touch of pineapple exoticism. That same tropical flavour on the finish. Flowing and viscous but not excessively sweet thanks to the freshness on the finish. Still very primary and showing little bottle age. (JH)