The 2019 Riesling Scharzhofberger Pergentsknopp Grosses Gewächs is hauntingly herbal and floral as well as mouthwateringly suggestive of sea breeze and marine creatures. There is a custardy sense of textural richness here that is more in keeping with typical vintage character than are the firmer feels of other Van Volxem 2019 Grosse Gewächse that I tasted alongside. Yet there is also a delightful sense of buoyancy more familiar from the estate’s 2020s. Marjoram and moss lend smoky herbal accents, while crab and oyster innards trigger the salivary glands on a penetratingly persistent, vibrant finish enlivened and lent refreshment by lime and grapefruit.

Over the years the Pergentsknopp has become something like the flagship Grosses Gewächs of van Volxem, and 2019 is no exception. On the nose, gentle sprinklings of cumin and aniseed embellish an already impressive composition of herbal and mineral aromas. The palate is oozing juice without sacrificing structure. Sappy green-herbal flavours work in unison with dusty and saline mineral nuances, embedded in a rich texture. Very generous, burgundian style, but unmistakably Riesling. (MS)