A Diel 2010 Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Auslese gold capsule was – as Caroline Diel relates – “picked early in November from a parcel with abundant desiccated berries and the must weight of a Beerenauslese, but for us not sufficiently Beerenauslese in character.” Borderline-overripe Persian and musk melon manage to coexist in largely fruitful tension with fresh lime, although the acids here are almost glaring and Eiswein-like. Confectionary sweetness – a sense of candied citrus rind and nougat – along with pungent spice follow in a persistent finish. This will almost surely remain fresh for more than two decades, though whether it will become more intriguing, harmonious or alluring I won’t attempt to predict. While her famous father Armin naturally continues as a trusted advisor, it is evident in conversation as well from continued adjustments in methodology that Caroline Diel is settling into her role as hands-on manager of this great estate, clearly positioning it as one of those lucky enough to receive the special benefits and blessings that can accrue to felicitous multi-generational collaboration. Selective double-salt de-acidification was performed here in 2010 – occasionally even in lots destined for residually sweet wines – and skin contact encouraged. Alcohol levels for this year’s Grosse Gewachse are in the moderate, 12.5-13% range. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300