The 2007 Norheimer Dellchen Riesling Spatlese - which Donnhoff offered at auction - unites ripe apricot, pear, nectarine and quince with salinity and alkaline mineral elements on a palate of creamy, almost paste-like richness, and riveting intensity. The distinctive botrytis component here, though, is as subtle as it is unmistakably noble. The expression documentation of the vineyard to which Donnhoff alluded in explaining the character of this vintage seems to apply in another sense here, as one could write an essay attempting to capture this wine's finish. No doubt it will dazzle in 25 years as well. While Donnhoff returned to his usual humility in characterizing the latest vintage - following an atypically unabashed outbreak of enthusiasm in describing his indeed amazing collection of 2006s - it is clear that the 2007s delight him in a similar way, as outstanding representations of their respective sites at Spatlese ripeness. (Note, incidentally, that the Pradikat has been removed from any dry wines here, in keeping with a new convention of the Nahe branch of the VDP growers- association.) -Within that range of ripeness,- he submits, -one best-recognizes the site. Here you have nothing exaggerated, but instead a normal harvest, meaning a documentation of the vineyards, each a different face on the landscape. They all went to the same school and had the same opportunities- he adds, gesturing to the long row of Spatlesen on the tasting table, and alluding to his own role as well as the vintage-s. -It was a bit intimidating this year at harvest,- he added, -because when the grapes are perfect, you can only make mistakes.- I had the rare fortune to taste this collection twice, and like so many 2007s (a comment that even more growers made about their 2008s) the wines were much more impressive in September than in Spring. A 2007 Hermannshohle Trockenbeerenauslese, by the way, is still trying to become wine after two years. Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

(auction wine) Ripe apple, forest floor and lime aromas mingle with a faint hint of honeyed botrytis. Rich, unctuous tropical fruit flavors pervade the palate. A wine with creamy depth and a smoky spice character that lingers seductively on an extremely long finish. One of the finest spatleses of the vintage.

The nose slightly mute with some apparent SO2. Lemon / lime and green apple fruit aromas predominate with a whiff of orange blossom. The palate is incredibly tight with lots of tightly wound flavours and very zesty acidity. Long finish with lingering notes of kaffir lime leaf.