The 2004 Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Auslese is blazingly bright in the nose, with tropical fruit richness allied to bright citrus and tart red raspberry notes. In the mouth there is sharpness and brightness as well as a complex dynamic of mango, pink grapefruit, red raspberry and pungent spice and mineral saltiness. This lacks the delicacy or serenity of so many of Donnhoff’s best wines, but in its jazz-like syncopation of flavors and the almost jarring juxtaposition of blazingly bright citricity with massive density, offers an exciting personality all its own. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

(for 375 ml.) Pale golden yellow. Musky peach, a floral touch and a bit of licorice on the nose. Smoke and honey give way to spicy acidity on the palate. A well-balanced, vivid auslese that finishes with an almost salty minerality.