From a steep, south-facing vineyard on red sandstone soils, the 2015 (Roxheimer) Höllenpfad Riesling Trocken opens with warm and generous yellow apple fruit, but also a coolish and piquant sand stone expression with spicy and even peppery lemon flavors. "The grapes are always smaller here than in the Kahlenberg and the berries [are] very intense in their fine fruit aromas," says Helmut Dönnhoff. The roots can go through the sandstone, which is not the case in the volcanic soils of Niederhausen and Oberhausen. As a result, drought stress is very rare and that makes the Höllenpfad a perfect origin for dry Rieslings. On the palate, this is a generously fruity, but also pure, piquant and finely racy Riesling with lingering salinity and lemony freshness. The wine is dense and generous, but precise, fresh and rather cool instead of warm. It is a gorgeous Riesling that combines the warmth of the northern Nahe, closer to the Rhine river, with the purity and salinity of the Niederhausen/Oberhausen. The finish is pretty, long and aromatic, and the ripe apples remain on the palate as do the stony flavors. SR

Lemon and clementine decidedly marked by their rinds mingle with smoky black tea on the nose as well as on a firm mid-palate. The smoky, peppery, zesty persistence here is formidable; but don’t look to it for charm. This is an instance where Helmut Dönnhoff and I can agree that his ideal of “puristic” Riesling is being exemplified. But I would welcome more of the primary juiciness and waft displayed by other dry Dönnhoff 2015s. The track record for Dönnhoff Höllenpfad trocken is as yet short, and I would be inclined to set this 2015 aside for a bit longer and then revisit. DS

Recovered from a very steep south-facing red sandstone slope. A bit like Niersteiner Hang. Very intense and floral on the nose – very distinctive. Firm, even rather stern, finish. Needs time. JR