The 2022 Riesling Roxheimer Höllenpfad im Mühlberg Grosses Gewächs is from a special, old parcel of 40-year-old Riesling within the stoniest, rockiest parts of the Permian sandstone of the Höllenpfad. A touch of yeast still plays with the ripe apricot fruit that shimmers shyly on the nose. A touch of white pepper later appears. The palate is stony yet rounded, structured by rockiness, with vivid glimmers of lemon oil, concentrated and increasingly zesty. It's pure yet has an increasingly insistent intensity, spraying with ripe lemon zestiness, white pepper and iron oxide. In the end, buffered lemon zest fills the mouth and mind. The 2022 is long, pure, zesty and insistent. (Bone-dry)

Cool, complex, creamy fruit and sweet herbs. Racy acidity and silken texture. Good ripe fruit purity and concentration but falls a bit short, with structure supplanting grace and nuance. (PS)