Coolish, pure and bright, with dashes of lemon oil on crushed blue slate rocks, the 2020 Felseneck GG is a Riesling to wake you up with its tart perfume. With lemon leaves and some sur lie notes on the nose, this is always precise, fresh and flinty and a picture-book Riesling for the favored style of Tim Fröhlich. This is as if the ocean was rushing over this vineyard that bears so much salt and power. In this case, its power and concentration shout for a carafe or a decade of bottle aging. For now, I prefer the purity and crystallinity of the Stromberg, but in the long run, this Felseneck could be unrivalled. 12.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted in July 2022.

The wild and funky fragrance of freshly crushed herbs is the signature tune of both site and maker and pronounced notes of green mint and parsley don’t disappoint. There is a cool freshness about the flavour, which almost cuts the palate. It’s the sappy and zingy taste of freshly crushed greens, supported by the mineral association of wet pebbles, which refreshes the parts other Grosse Gewächse can’t reach. (MS)