The 2003 Riesling Auslese Oberhauser Brucke exhibits a terrific nose of perfume, lilies, violets, and apples. Broad, supple, and round, this pure, medium-bodied wine has the personality and grace of a plump, joyful dancer. Its plush, sweet white fruit-packed core is dusted with spices whose flavors are seamlessly extended into its prolonged finish. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2030. Bravo to Helmut Donnhoff for this magical line-up! Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The vineyard closest to the cellars. Acidity still 9.5 g/l – helped by proximity to river and low altitude. Had to keep bunches very clean. Picked last week of oct – five weeks earlier than the 1991 was picked. Famous for his Eiswein in this vineyard and this may contain a bit of it. 120 Oechsle. RS 120 g/l. Straw. Tense, and dense, this wine jumps out of the glass. Completely exciting! Electric and energetic. Lots of fruit but masses of acidity too. Still a little chewy on the finish. Tempting to drink now but one shouldn’t really. (JR)