Very cool and reserved at the front, but this is an enormously deep and complex wine that has staggering mineral intensity. The lime and oolong-tea freshness effortlessly swallows up the unfermented grape sweetness, as if it didn’t really exist. Some will criticize, saying that this is too radical, but that’s what creates the great excitement! The herbal freshness at the finish is really astounding. Drinkable now, but best from 2023. Stuart Pigott

The 2020 Riesling Spätlese Grünlack is precise and fine on the bright and delicately fruity and flinty nose that shows white peach aromas along with some flinty notes of crushed stones. Very elegant and crystalline on the palate, this is a stimulating Spätlese with great precision and finesse. The finish is stimulatingly salty and piquant. Excellent already today. 8% alcohol. Tasted at Schloss Gobelsburg in July 2021. SR