Botrytis makes itself felt already in the nose by way of penetrating, nose-prickling candied ginger and tangerine rind. But the rot here is noble indeed, and in no way precludes exceptional finesse. Chartreuse-like floral and herbal essences add to the high-toned intensity of the nose while simultaneously lending a cooling impression. Rainier cherry and white peach retain refreshing primary juiciness even as they move in a syrupy direction on the buoyant but viscous palate, the reprise of ginger and citrus zest offering welcome counterpoint. There is such pronounced salinity here that it left me salivating uncontrollably--as well as a sense of transparency remarkable for a wine of such richness. It took a decade in my (seemingly contrarian) estimation, for Keller’s nobly sweet Rieslings to catch up to his dry ones in terms of clarity and precision; but with this Auslese parity has been achieved.

Red slate soils. About 30% botrytis. Very steep slope. Smells deep and rich and a little spicy, almost savoury even with all the citrus intensity. Intense, bright apricot fruit on the palate, rich but so alive and fresh, grapefruit flavours adding in their purity and zest. Glorious, seamless intense purity without weight. (JH)