Lime and white peach are tinged with mint in an effusive nose, then joined by invigoratingly tart white currant and an undertone of wet stone on a delicate, generously juicy, and eye-wateringly bright palate. A tingling interplay of crystalline stony impingements and crunch of currant seeds with luscious peach, apple and lime makes for an exhilaratingly vibrant and sustained finish. In deference to the regional VDP’s insistence that putting “Hipping” on the label of a Kabinett would be taking the name of this site (or any other!) in vain, Keller limits himself to “H” (or “P,” for Pettenthal, as the case may be).

H stands for the Hipping vineyard. Low yields in 2014 due to coulure – just 30 hl/ha. Delicate but definite: there’s lime, grapefruit and broken rocks. On the sweeter side but there is no clash with the acidity here, it is all harmony, with a creamy depth on the palate that you almost miss because of the very precise shape from the acidity that gives that long mouthwatering finish. Perfect Kabinett. (JH)