The 2008 Tokaji Aszu Betsek 6-Puttonyos is another fabulous 2008 to add to the Royal Tokaji Company’s roster. The nose is as clean as a whistle: beautifully delineated with candied orange peel, honeysuckle and resinous scents, the latter becoming more accentuated with about 20 minutes aeration. The palate is underpinned by the razor-sharp acidity that lends this Tokaji so much freshness and vitality. It is a feisty little thing like the 2007, but the 2008 displays even better control and focus. The tangy marmalade-infused finish rivets you to the spot, and those spicy white pepper notes just add another level to an already superb Tokaji. Throw out the Sauternes! This brilliant Tokaji will last decades, not years.

Betsek is an old Hungarian noble family name. The largest first growth in Tokaj, 93 ha of which they have 15 ha. Mainly black volcanic clay with some red. Other sites are on a single hill but this is 3 smaller hills, at 140-190 m elevation, opposite the south face of Kiraly (royal) vineyard. Usually as high acid as Szt Tamas but different structure. Acid usually harsh acid not in 2008 when it's positively peachy. Great minerality and spiciness. Greenish copper colour. Nutty, broad and rich and smooth. Can see the black pepper as a top note. Acid at the very end only. (JR)