The 2005 Taurasi Riserva Radici is now showing the very early signs of tertiary nuance. Hints of worn-in soft leather, licorice, incense, tobacco and menthol open up as the wine sits in the glass. Seemingly endless layers of aromas and flavors continue to develop over time. The 2005 is a decidedly classic leaning Taurasi with less overt fruit than some previous vintages, but tons of overall complexity. This is a superb showing from Mastroberardino. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2035. Mastroberardino is another winery that seems to have found an extra gear or two over the last few years. The Taurasis remain the flagships, but readers should also pay close attention to the entry-level reds and the best whites in this range. All of the wines are deeply varietal, making Mastroberardino a perfect place to start learning about the great wines of Campania. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620