The full-bodied, dark garnet-colored 1997 Barolo Colonnello displays licorice, spice, box, and kirsch liqueur characteristics as well as noticeable acidity. As the wine sits in the glass, aromas of soy, herbs, and incense emerge. It is a tightly-framed, full-bodied, powerful yet close-to-the-vest offering. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2018. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Very good deep ruby red. Slightly medicinal cherry and menthol nose. Sweet, thick and very concentrated; more lively in the mouth than the above. Showing better than the normale: there's more wine here. Finishes with substantial but ripe tannins.

Monforte d'Alba. Not one of the deepest wines but a healthy crimson. Very reticent autumnal nose. Well-melded flavours on the mid-palate but the overriding impression of this wine from the arch-traditionalist is of chewy, classic tannins and noticeably higher acidity than most other wines. (JR)