The 2007 Barolo Colonnello is one of the darkest, richest wines I have ever tasted from Aldo Conterno. The explosive, textured Colonnello bursts from the glass with tons of dark fruit, violets, licorice and oak. A long, vibrant finish and the sheer depth of the fruit suggest that the Colonnello will require patience, despite the radiance of the year. This is a stellar effort from Aldo Conterno. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027. This is a gorgeous set of wines from Aldo Conterno. The estate’s continued pursuit of low yields in the vineyard has paid off handsomely over the last few years. The 2007 Baroli spent 29 months in oak and were bottled in September 2010. Unfortunately 2007 was a difficult vintage at Aldo Conterno. There will be no 2007 Romirasco or Granbussia because of damage to the fruit caused by hail. Importer: Massanois Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 470-6769

Good deep red with ruby highlights. Wild, highly nuanced nose combines blackberry, licorice, minerals, flowers and herbs. Offers compelling sweetness but more structure and cut than the classico, showing a tight core of dark fruits and minerals and excellent focus. Less velvety and open-knit today but classy and long, with substantial ripe tannins reaching the front teeth. Not quite as chiseled or refined as the 2008 but there's more stuffing here.