The luster of new oak shines bright here, as do the very bright and assertively ripe cherries and red plums, as well as orange zest. The tannins are a highlight with a very fluid and fleshy core of red-fruit flavor, building to a tight and long finish. This is regal Barolo. Try from 2023.

Of these four Barolos from Poderi Aldo Conterno, the 2015 Barolo Bussia Colonnello (with a mere 5,000 bottles made) shows the most focused precision. This wine offers a very fine and detailed bouquet that is distinguished by linear fruit, spice and mineral. Those aromas feel elongated and extended, both in terms of their volume and length. This impression is especially strong in a warm vintage like 2015, which brings intense and richly concentrated fruit to the table. This wine is extremely elegant and generous.

In contrast to Conterno's Romirasco and Cicala bottlings, south-facing Colonnello delivers slightly more forward and accessible wines. Rose aromas dominate the ripe and piquant nose. It's broad and generous in the mouth, with bold, assertive tannins. It's a harmonious style that doesn't show exceptional acidity but is nonetheless long and stylish.