Full deep red. Low-toned, brooding aromas of roasted plum, cherry, tar and mint. Powerful and large-scaled; thicker than the Colonnello. A massive Barolo that not at all heavy. Really chewy with extract. Finishes with big, lush tannins and superb persistence. A definite 20+-year Barolo.

The stunning aromatics of the 1996 Barolo is full-bodied and muscular. It possesses high tannin as well as extract, and mouth-searing acidity that gives the wine both great precision as well as a frightfully backward character. A super-dense, extracted, and rich Barolo, it will not be ready to drink for a decade. Discipline in the form of cellaring is definitely required for this fabulous Barolo. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2030. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Extending over 300ha, Bussia is an enormous and varied cru in Monforte d'Alba. The original heartland known as Bussia Soprana boasts some of Barolo's most famous vineyards, including Cicala. Solely owned by the Aldo Conterno estate, it has been fermented separately since 1970. Alas, this was a disappointing showing. Cloudy in appearance and vinegary in flavour, it did not improve as it sat in the glass and was undoubtedly flawed. This simply isn't representative of the great wines that initially sealed Aldo Conterno's reputation nor of what his children are now producing at the estate today.