Granbussia, the Barolo Riserva of the house, is made principally from the grapes of the Romirasco vineyard, the estate’s highest, and the altitude was obviously of real assistance in the unusually hot year of 1997. The 1997 Barolo Riserva Granbussia, quite fresh for the vintage, features a sweet, ripe, floral and tarry nose, fine cherry and plum fruit on the rich and full-bodied palate along with minerals, herbs, licorice, and asphalt. Though always a long-lived wine, it generally comes around earlier than Vigna Cicala, and I would choose to drink the wine between 2005 and 2020. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Deepish ruby. Autumn undergrowth. Rich and round and flattering. Still with quite a bit of acidity . Transparent. Certainly no hint of oak! Dry, palate scrub finish. Smoky bonfire nose. Bone dry, Côte Rôtie silkiness. (JR)