Altare’s 2005 Barolo Arborina comes across as unusually soft for a young Nebbiolo. It is a perfumed, elegant wine with generous sweet red fruit, subtle notes of French oak and lovely poise. This graceful Nebbiolo should be accessible fairly early. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2022. With his characteristic modesty Elio Altare told me 2005 was not a great vintage for him. “The harvest had to be timed perfectly, if we had waited just a few more hours the fruit would have been over-ripe,” says Altare. “2004, on the other hand was perfect. We were able to do several passes in the vineyards, picking each bunch at the optimal level of ripeness. In the cellar we did an absolute minimum of racking. The wines literally made themselves.” A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

Tasted at J&B’s Piedmont tasting in London. Altare’s Barolo Arborina is blessed with a rich, extrovert, tarry nose that instantly seduces the senses. Blackberry, lavender, Doris plum and leather explode from the glass, and then with aeration, there are hints of secondary aromas: autumn bonfire and walnut. The palate is savory comparative to other 2005 Barolos, well balanced, harmonious with just a touch of ginger toward the finish that lingers long after the wine has gone. Superb. Drink 2011-2025. Tasted September 2009.

Good full, deep red. Captivating, nuanced nose offers cherry, redcurrant, brown spices, roast coffee, underbrush, rose petal and licorice. Sweet and subtle, with wonderful aromatic character in the mouth over a firm spine. Here the tannins are much finer than those of the normale and the slightly balsamic finishing flavors of menthol, marzipan, dried herbs and spices show more lift and length.

Very rich and gorgeous and broad, exciting nerve and full and across the palate. Worth waiting quite a while for this. (JR)