Tar, smoke, licorice, menthol and leather emerge from the 1999 Barolo Bricco Fiasco. Still fresh and vibrant, the 1999 has lost most of its baby fat and is at the early part of its drinking window. The wine turns darker with time in the glass, but never loses its mid-weight personality. This is an immensely appealing Barolo to drink now and over the next handful of years. The characteristic energy of Bricco Fiasco comes through nicely on the finish.

Medium red. Deep, vinous nose dominated by tobacco and nutty oak. Sweeter and denser than the '98 Bricco Fiasco today, with a strongly spicy character and a seamless texture. Rather powerful Barolo, with strong but nicely supported tannins. This, too, will need additional bottle aging and should merit an even higher score five or six years down the road.

The 1999 Barolo Bricco Fiasco, darker in color than the regular bottling, is decidedly oakier on the nose, with a very perceptible presence of cloves, cedar, and vanilla along with the tar and licorice. Solid, forceful, and long in flavor, tarry and spicy, its length and intensity suggest that patience will be needed here. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2018. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

Too volatile for me. (JR)