The estate’s 2007 Barolo Bricco Fiasco shows the radiant personality of the vintage while maintaining considerable freshness. Fiasco is a vineyard that typically presents firm tannins, but in 2007 the warmth of the year has given the wine an extra dimension of plumpness to the fruit that is quite welcome. This shows superb purity on the mid-palate, where hints of smoke, tar, licorice and a host of other aromas and flavors add complexity to the seamless fruit. A minerally, saline finish rounds things out in style. This is a stunning Barolo from Azelia. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2027. This is a stunning set of wines from Azelia and proprietor Luigi Scavino. Unlike many of his colleagues, Scavino has opted to make his straight Barolo rather accessible, with no pretense of grandeur, creating a big difference between that wine and his single-vineyard offerings, which in this vintage are breathtakingly beautiful. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: De Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; tel. (630) 422-1119

Good deep red. Wild, smoky aromas of superripe red fruits, dark chocolate and game, with a suggestion of tropical fruits. Big, broad, fine-grained and sweet, delivering the fleshiness and size of the better 2007s. I wanted more high notes but the slowly mounting, powerful finish, featuring serious but fully ripe tannins, lingers impressively with notes of smoke, tar, mocha and minerals.

Still elegant but with a little more flesh on the bones than the 2008, if less complex. (WS)