The 2006 Barolo Margheria is totally Serralunga in its dark, vibrant fruit, violets, tar, iron, smoke and licorice. Endowed with tons of length and energy, the Margheria reveals notable complexity and a wiry, taut expression of fruit. Although impressive for its sheer power, my only wish is that the Margheria had a touch more depth to match its formidable structure. The wine’s balance, though, is terrific. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2026. Proprietor Luigi Scavino doesn’t get anywhere near the attention he deserves, but make no mistake about it, his top Barolos play in the same league with Piedmont’s elite bottlings. The Barolos see malolactic fermentation and aging in French oak barriques, although the Margheria is aged in medium-size French oak barrels. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

Good dark red. Redcurrant, leather and smoke on the nose. Densely packed but very backward. In fact, this is tough going today. Quite shut-down in the middle palate and on the seriously tannic finish. Very different in style from the 2005 version.