The 2007 Barolo Margheria was raised in cask and reveals a slightly more classic side of Nebbiolo. Sweet floral herbs, tobacco, geranium and wild flowers emerge from the bouquet. The firm yet well-integrated tannins frame a core of fruit loaded with Serralunga character, leading to a wiry, muscular finish. Hints of leather, licorice and iron linger in the glass. The Margheria is less immediate than the Bricco Fiasco at this stage, and it will require more patience, but it is every bit as compelling. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027. This is a stunning set of wines from Azelia and proprietor Luigi Scavino. Unlike many of his colleagues, Scavino has opted to make his straight Barolo rather accessible, with no pretense of grandeur, creating a big difference between that wine and his single-vineyard offerings, which in this vintage are breathtakingly beautiful. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: De Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; tel. (630) 422-1119

Deep red. Very ripe aromas of cherry, strawberry, licorice, smoke and mocha. Sweet, plush and seamless, with terrific concentration to the red fruit and mineral flavors. This wonderfully round 2007 saturates the entire palate without leaving any impression of heaviness. The wine's superripe finishing flavors of dark berries are leavened by excellent mineral lift. A superb showing, but I'd wait at least five or six years before pulling the cork.