The 2008 Barolo Margheria opens with a sweet, inviting bouquet redolent of hard candy, flowers, mint and licorice. Deceptively medium in body, the Margheria packs quite a bit of punch, even if that isn’t totally obvious at the outset. Layers of dark fruit flow through to a powerful, incisive finish laced with dried flowers and spices. The Margheria is notable for its intensity and textural depth. It is another super-classy wine from Azelia. For the Margheria the estate did not encourage fast malos by heating the cellar after the alcoholic fermentation. Instead, the malos were allowed to occur naturally the following spring, a much more traditional approach that worked beautifully. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028. The 2008s from Azelia pick up where the 2007s left off, which is to say at a high level. The harvest for the Nebbiolo took place between October 12 and 25, very much on the late side. The 2008s have great acidity, expressive bouquets and intense structures, all typical of the best wines of the year. Azelia remains one of the under-the-radar jewels of Piemonte. The wines have been terrific for some time, and prices are exceedingly fair considering the quality of what goes into the bottle. Importers: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300; Robert Houde Wines, Elk Grove Village, IL; tel. (847) 430-3887, Giuliana Imports, Denver, CO; tel. (303) 547-6343, Epic Wines, Santa Cruz, CA; tel. (800) 322-3742, Selected Brands, Deerfield Beach, FL; tel. (954) 428-0019

Good full medium red. Deep nose offers floral, mineral and menthol scents. Silky on entry, then tighter, even a bit youthfully aggressive, in the middle, with terrific energy to its intense floral and mineral flavors. This very densely packed wine spreads out impressively on the back end, finishing with sweet tannins and superb persistence.