The 2014 Barolo Margheria opens with beguiling, deep-pitched aromatics. Bright red cherry and plum fruit, licorice, anise, rose water and orange peel are some of the many notes that give the wine its personality. Bright, saline and sculpted in feel, the 2014 is going to need a few years to fully unwind, but it is unquestionably vibrant and expressive today. The 2014 spent three years in cask.

Here is a darker and more robust wine from Serralunga d'Alba where soils are heavier. They also show a greater presence of clay and limestone. The 2014 Barolo Margheria is made with fruit from 50-year-old vines and shows compact and dense aromatic intensity as a result. The bouquet is constructed on top of thick layers of dark fruit, dried cherry, balsam herb and crushed mineral. The 2014 mouthfeel, however, veers toward the lean and compact side of the Barolo spectrum.