Dark ruby. Exuding much richness and youthfulness, the San Rocco offers a heady, ethereal nose with suggestions of spices, sweet toasted oak and white truffles. As it sits in the glass, it opens to reveal gorgeous layers of vibrant sweet dark fruit, licorice, and menthol nuances that coat the palate with exceptional elegance and length It too should drink well to age 20 and perhaps beyond. One of the vintage's great wines.

The 1999 Barolo San Rocco, from a vineyard in Serralunga d’Alba, is the most complete of the trio. Ruby/garnet, it is the most expressive in its fruit, with ample plum and black cherry notes, well endowed with the classic asphalt and anisette aromas of Nebbiolo, and has absorbed its oak with greater success. Powerful and concentrated yet well balanced on the palate, its solid structure and firm texture are complemented by the velvet of the tactile sensations and the sweetness of the fruit. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2020. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

Full red. Reticent but pure aromas of strawberry, mocha, tobacco, brown sugar and menthol. At once smooth and vinous, with intriguing notes of minerals and woodsmoke. Tougher and less sweet than the '98 San Rocco, finishing with firm, chewy tannins that will require four or five years of additional bottle aging.