The 2005 Barolo San Rocco screams with the essence of Serralunga in its dark fruit, spices, licorice and sweet French oak. Today the wine is massive, but its inner sweetness occasionally makes an appearance, with pretty balsamic nuances that emerge from behind a wall of imposing tannins. The San Rocco lacks a little polish, but much of that should come with time. I would not be surprised to see this bottle merit a higher score in a few years. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2025. Azelia remains one of my favorite under-the-radar producers in Piedmont. Proprietor Luigi Scavino fashions gorgeous wines from his vineyards in Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411