Brovia's 2020 Barolo Villero is a potent, savory wine. Dried herbs, menthol, licorice, wildflowers, spice and dark-toned fruit give the Villero its distinctive personality. Broad swaths of tannin wrap it all together. Dark and brooding, the 2020 is not ready to reveal its charms. All this needs is time—I can't wait to taste it in another few years. As is often the case, the Villero is Barolo that emphasizes savory/earthy/mineral notes more than overt fruit.

From the heart of Castiglione Falletto, the 2020 Barolo Villero (with 5,000 bottles made) is another gorgeous wine from Brovia that boasts incredible focus and precision that transcends both the bouquet and the palate. The wine is etched, fine and polished with pronounced minerality that gives backbone and framing to a delicate core of red fruit flavors. The 2020 vintage is slightly more accessible overall, but the wine also offers impressive elegance too.

Castiglione Falletto. Lustrous mid ruby. More open than the Rocche di Castiglione of the same vintage. Perfumed fruit with impressive depth and saline, minerally hints. Cool-climate fruit that rolls over the palate, with a layer of fine, deep, sandy tannins guiding the fruit. Long and super-focused. (WS)