The 2018 Barolo Castelletto is a new wine in this range from a parcel plant in 1973. It opens with soaring aromatics that then reappear on the palate in the wine's broad, ample feel. Sage, mint, leather, plum, lavender tobacco and espresso build in a sensual, aromatically beguiling Barolo that captures all of the pedigree of this Monforte site. Fabio Alessandria told me he was intrigued to try his hand making wine from a new site and village, hence the family's decision to buy this parcel in Monforte rather than bolstering their holdings closer to home. The debut vintage is certainly impressive.

For the first time, Fabio Alessandria invested in Monforte, where he now manages a vineyard in Castelletto. The MGA was deliberately chosen due to its easterly exposition, in order to preserve as much as possible the freshness of fruit in this Barolo. Perky orange zest shines on the nose, along with watermelon peel, red currants and balsamic whiffs. Savoury and dense with a significant concentration and thickness, it doesn't come across as overextracted but the tannins are muscular and dusty, allied to a kernel flavour on the ripe finish. It's all underlined by firm, quite high acidity. Great tension for the 2018 vintage in this Castelletto, more bony than meaty. One to follow.

Here's an exciting new addition to the growing Comm. G.B. Burlotto family of wines. The 2018 Barolo Castelletto opens to a soft and delicate inner core that is framed by wild cherry, licorice and rose. The wine is beautifully tapered and streamlined on the palate, with very polished and silky tannins. It is great taste to this effort by the "King of Verduno," (a.k.a. proprietor Fabio Alessandria) and the structured fruit from Monforte d'Alba.

Monforte d'Alba. First vintage! Lustrous and just mid ruby. Firmer with more potent fruit than characterises Verduno, but with the trademark G B Burlotto elegance. Fragrant and a little backward and with plenty of vivid acidity and a layer of very fine, persistent tannins following the fruit. This has the G B Burlotto elegance writ large all over it. (WS)